Interesting Materials Used for Jewellery in the 20th Century

Celluloid

Celluloid was one of the first synthetic plastics and was extensively used in jewellery making during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It was a breakthrough material because of its ability to be molded into complex shapes and its relative affordability. jewellery pieces such as hairpins, brooches, and combs were often made from celluloid, which was sometimes treated to resemble ivory, tortoiseshell, or even coral. However, celluloid’s tendency to yellow and become brittle over time haslimited its longevity, and its use declined as newer plastics emerged.

Bakelite

Bakelite was one of the first synthetic plastics, invented in the early 1900s by Belgian chemist Leo Baekeland. It first became popular for jewellery in the 1920s and 1930s, especially in the Art Deco era. Bakelite jewellery was valued for its versatility, color vibrancy, and affordability compared to precious metals and gemstones. It could be molded into various shapes, and designers embraced it. This material was used to create bold, geometric pieces like bangles, earrings, and brooches that symbolized the era’s modern aesthetic. Its now highly collectable.

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Caselin

Caselin, a type of thermoplastic material, emerged during the mid-20th century as a substitute for Bakelite. While not as well-known, it was often used in costume jewellery for its lightweight and durable properties. Caselin had a smooth, lustrous finish and could be molded into intricate designs. It was also a more cost-effective alternative to Bakelite, and its ability to be dyed in various colors allowed for the creation of vibrant and decorative pieces. Caselin was often used for making statement necklaces, rings, and bracelets.

Lucite

Lucite, a brand name for a type of acrylic resin, was developed in the 1930s and quickly became one of the most popular materials used in jewellery making. Known for its transparency, brilliance, and ability to be molded into various shapes, Lucite became a staple in mid-20th-century costume jewellery. It was particularly admired for its lightweight nature and its ability to resemble gemstones and precious materials without the associated cost.

Lucite jewellery often mimicked the appearance of diamonds, pearls, and semi-precious stones, giving it a high-end look at an affordable price. Its clear, glossy finish also allowed for the creation of bold, colorful designs, ranging from simple, geometric shapes to intricate, layered compositions. Lucite’s versatility enabled jewellers to create pieces that were both innovative and eye-catching, from statement necklaces and chunky bracelets to sculptural earrings and brooches.

One of the most famous uses of Lucite in jewellery was in the 1940s and 1950s, during the height of Hollywood glamour. Designers such as Sarah Coventry and Trifari made extensive use of Lucite in their collections, often combining the material with rhinestones and metals to create glamorous, show-stopping pieces. Lucite’s ability to be dyed in an array of vibrant colors also made it a popular choice for jewellery during the Art Deco and mid-century modern periods, where boldness and creativity in design were highly valued.

Despite its popularity, Lucite began to lose favor toward the late 1960s as newer materials, like plastic and resin, emerged. However, its impact on jewellery design continued to be felt, influencing contemporary designs that sought to combine materials in innovative ways.

Plastic

Plastic, as a material, revolutionized not only the jewellery industry but also numerous other sectors during the 20th century. The invention of plastic began in the early 1900s, but it wasn’t until the mid-century that plastic’s potential was fully realized in fashion. With its ability to be molded into virtually any shape, plastic provided jewellery designers with a material that was both affordable and flexible, opening up new avenues for mass production and creative experimentation.

One of the key advantages of plastic in jewellery making was its affordability compared to traditional materials like gold, silver, and gemstones. This made fashionable jewellery more accessible to the general public, and plastic quickly became a preferred material for costume jewellery. It allowed for the creation of large, bold, and colorful pieces that could be mass-produced at lower costs.

Plastic’s lightweight nature also made it an ideal choice for jewellery that needed to be worn for extended periods. It offered comfort and durability, making it suitable for both everyday wear and high-fashion accessories. One of the most notable types of plastic jewellery produced was the use of thermoplastic materials, which could be easily shaped when heated, allowing designers to create intricate patterns and textures.