All of us have bought and worn costume jewellery in the past. The majority (with some key exceptions) of modern designs are of low quality and poorly made. However, we shouldn’t disregard the costume jewellery of the past, as many pieces are well made and have stood the test of time. Here we will focus on a few of the best makers of the 20th Century including two British makers.
Trifari
Established by Gustavo Trifari in 1925, the brand quickly rose to prominence, attracting a team of designers from esteemed houses such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Notably, Alfred Philippe, a luminary in the jewellery world, assumed the role of Trifari’s head designer in 1930, bringing with him a wealth of experience and creative brilliance.
The mark of Crown Trifari, used from the late 1930s until 1969, is a symbol of utmost desirability among collectors and enthusiasts alike. The 1930s period is the most sought after, as fine craftsmanship gave rise to some of the cherished pieces in the world of vintage jewellery. Pieces from the 1950s and 1960s still hold good value,. whereas later designs whilst still great quality and fabulous to wear, are in more abundance and therefore less collectable.
Some early examples can be seen here.
To see our current Trifari Range click here.
Monet
Established in 1937 by Michael and Joseph Chernow, Monet has become synonymous with sophistication, quality craftsmanship, and a legacy of timeless beauty. Monet Jewelry traces its origins back to the late 1930s, a period characterised by an appreciation for craftsmanship and a desire for lasting beauty. Monet quickly established itself as a brand committed to creating jewellery that combined elegance with accessibility.
One of the defining features of Monet was its unwavering commitment to craftsmanship. Each piece is a testament to the brand’s dedication to quality, with meticulous attention to detail and a focus on creating designs that stand the test of time due to heavy gold or silver plating Monet Jewelry has also gained recognition among collectors for its investment-worthy pieces. Vintage Monet items, especially those from the mid-20th century, are highly sought after by collectors who appreciate the craftsmanship and design sensibilities of the era.
Some collectable pieces can be seen here.
To see our current Monet range click here.
Coro
Coro Jewelry, a name synonymous with quality craftsmanship and enduring style, holds a special place in the hearts of collectors and fashion enthusiasts alike. Coro, short for Cohn and Rosenberger, was founded in 1901 by Emanuel Cohn and Carl Rosenberger. The company’s humble beginnings in Providence, Rhode Island, marked the start of a journey that would eventually lead to Coro becoming one of the most prominent and influential costume jewellery manufacturers of the 20th century. With a commitment to affordable luxury, Coro quickly gained popularity, offering beautifully crafted jewellery that captured the essence of every era..
Coro was known for embracing new materials and technologies, creating jewellery that mirrored the trends of the time. From the Art Deco era to the mid-century modern period, Coro seamlessly blended contemporary influences with timeless elegance, producing pieces that remain coveted by collectors today. Coro Jewelry’s diverse catalog showcased a range of styles, from intricate floral motifs to bold geometric designs. Coro’s success can also be attributed to its collaborations with renowned designers. Adolph Katz, one of the key designers for Coro, played a pivotal role in creating some of the brand’s most iconic pieces. Collectors often seek out these collaborations, appreciating the craftsmanship and unique design sensibilities that emerged from these partnerships. While Coro officially closed its doors in 1979, the legacy of its craftsmanship and innovation lives on. Vintage Coro pieces remain highly collectible, cherished for their historical significance and enduring beauty.
Interestingly part of the Corocraft line was manufactured in Crawley UK during the 1960s and 1970s, It’s quite common to find jewellery made there in UK charity shops and estate sales.
Some information about the highly collectable “Jelly Belly” pieces can be seen here.
Sphinx
Sphinx Jewellery emerged in post-war England in 1948, founded by S. Root and Jack Willis. The brand quickly gained recognition for its exquisite craftsmanship and commitment to producing high-quality costume jewellery both for their own retail and for other companies such as Kenneth Jay Lane and Butler & Wilson. Sphinx’s creations, often inspired by the luxurious designs of fine jewellery, were crafted to provide an accessible yet glamorous alternative for fashion-conscious individuals. The use of high-quality materials and intricate design elements set Sphinx apart, making its pieces highly sought after by collectors seeking both beauty and craftsmanship. They’re one of our favourite UK vintage brands and often well priced considering the quality work.
Sphinx Jewellery embraced a diverse range of design influences, from Art Deco geometric patterns to the romantic florals of the Victorian era. The brand’s ability to adapt to changing fashion trends while maintaining a timeless appeal contributed to its enduring popularity.
Many Sphinx pieces are adorned with the brand’s signature cartouche, a small rectangular plaque engraved with the Sphinx name. This mark, often accompanied by a registration number, not only adds to the authenticity of the piece but also enhances its collectibility. Some pieces are just marked with the registration number and can be identified by their design and features.
To see our current Sphinx range click here.
Miracle
Miracle Jewellery was started in the 1940s in Birmingham, England, under the visionary guidance of A. Hill & Company. The brand quickly earned a reputation for its exceptional craftsmanship and distinctive designs, which drew inspiration from various cultures, historical periods, and nature itself, and taking many influences from Celtic, Irish and Scottish artefacts. Miracle pieces were crafted not just as accessories but as tangible expressions of art and enchantment with each piece meticulously crafted with precision and care.
Miracle pieces are often marked with the brand’s name or a signature plaque, confirming their authenticity and origin. Pieces from the mid-20th century, in particular, are considered valuable additions to vintage jewellery collections.
You can find out more about Miracle here. Note they are now owned by St Justin of Cornwall.
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Dunhill Cufflinks Sterling Silver Guilloche Enamel Green Boxed£194.95
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Victorian Black Paté de Verre Cameo Brooch Mourning Jewellery£54.95
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Grossé Germany Box Chain Long Necklace£74.95
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Georg Jensen 9ct Gold St Christopher Pendant Hallmarked 1976£179.95
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9ct Gold Art Deco Amethyst Glass Necklace£124.95
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Gerda Lynggaard Multi Strand Amber & Horn Bead Necklace Vintage Monies£149.95
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Edwardian Silver Marcasite Pendant Necklace£79.95
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Hermann Siersbol Silver Horseshoe Brooch C 1940s£34.95
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Henkel & Grossé Collier Necklace c1960s West Germany£199.95